The genus Trichopsis contains three wonderful species of aquarium fish. A notable feature of all Tricnopsis spp. is that they make croaking sounds, although only one is known as the croaking gourami. Interestingly, even fish as young as eight weeks can produce these sounds. The sound is used in displays that determine dominance and position within the social hierarchy, as well as to attract mates. Variations in volume and tone can provide important clues in identifying species.

Those sounds also make them interesting subjects for scientists, and the scientific literature is divided concerning the mechanism used to produce the croaking noises. Recent research indicates that they are the crickets of the aquarium hobby, with the sounds being produced by rapid beating of the pectoral fins. This has supplanted the old idea that the sound was produced by muscles displacing organs in the air-filled superbranchial cavity, with the resultant sound being amplified by the swim bladder.

A Trichopsis Aquarium

By nature, Trichopsis species are somewhat shy and retiring. While most hobbyists keep them in community aquariums, the typical community tank is not ideal. These species will all do best in planted aquaria. When designing an aquascape, it is necessary to plan around their needs over those of tank mates if you are to truly appreciate their colours and behaviour.

Because these are relatively small species, tanks in the 10- to 30-gallon range will work well for them. Dense planting is ideal, with driftwood added as focal points that can be used as potential spawning sites. Though they primarily build bubblenests at the surface, Trichopsis spp. will occasionally build submersed bubblenests on the underside of driftwood or horizontal plant leaves. There should also be some open space for swimming.

I find that the colours of these species display best in moderate lighting, so choose plants that will do best under that regime. Adding an actinic or 50/50 bulb will help enhance the blues and greens on the body and fins of several of the species. Biotope-appropriate plants would include many species of Cryptocoryne along with the various Hygrophila or Nomaphila species. These plants offer a wide array of leaf colours and shapes to choose from. They also naturally grow to different heights, so they will require less upkeep to maintain the height of the foreground and midground plants in an aquascape.

The addition of one of the smaller water lilies, such as the red Thai lily (Nymphaea rubra) or the dwarf lily (N. stellata), can be quite effective as a foreground focal point when they are not allowed to form floating pads. When the hobbyist wishes to encourage spawning, he or she can allow the pads of the lily to reach the surface, where they will provide a place for the Trichopsis to anchor their floating bubblenests.

Tankmates should be chosen with care. Most importantly, they should not be capable of intimidating the Trichopsis spp. The addition of a small, open-water schooling species can serve as an advance warning system for the Trichopsis. When the schooling fish display alarm, the Trichopsis know that it is time to flee and hide among the plants or under the driftwood. Having this early warning system will encourage the Trichopsis to spend more time out in the open where they can be viewed by the aquarist.

Excellent choices include members of the genera Boraras, Chela, and Trigonostigma, along with the smaller Rasbora species. I prefer these species to more active swimmers, such as dartios. Bottom-dwelling tankmates can be chosen from the various kuhli loaches of the genus Pangio, Hara catfish, the dwarf chain loach (Yasuhikotakia sidthimunki), and other similarly sized species.

Croaking Gourami (T. vittata)

The croaking gourami (T. vittata) is highly variable, with a number of geographic variations. It ranges throughout Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Malaysia, and the Indonesian islands of Borneo, Sumatra, and Java, where it is found primarily in areas of low water flow and heavy vegetation. I believe this is actually a species complex and expect that the geographic variants will eventually be described as separate species.

Most aquarium specimens are collected in Thailand, but the hobbyist should find out as much information as possible about the origin of their fish and fish from different locations. When the collection location is unknown, those that sport visual differences should not be bred, as this may result in the creation of unintended hybrids.

T. vittata is the largest species in the genus, with males growing to 3 inches in length.
Females remain slightly smaller. The caudal fin is lanceolate (long and narrow, with a pointed shape), and males from some locations develop extensions from the center of the caudal fin.

The anal fin is longer in males than females, and the extensions in most males develop from the tip that can extend beyond the caudal fin. In addition to their larger size and more impressive finnage, males can be distinguished from females by their more colourful bodies.
Most will display a metallic sheen when seen in the right lighting. The sheen can be blue, green, or any shade in between. There is a black spot in the mid-body just behind the pectoral fins in many variants.

Spawning this species in the aquarium is not difficult. A pair can be bred in a tank as small as 5 gallons. The spawning tank should include floating plants and a lot of java moss, which will serve as cover for the female and will also help ensure the presence of numerous microorganisms on which the fry can feed. The male builds a bubblenest at the surface attached to the floating plants, and after the typical anabantoid spawning embrace, the eggs are placed in the nest and cared for by the male. The female should be removed after spawning.

Eggs hatch in approximately 48 hours at a temperature of 80°F. The male should be removed when the fry are free swimming. The fry are too small to accept baby brine shrimp and should be offered infusorians as a first food, with newly hatched brine shrimp nauplii and microworms added to their diet as they grow. To find out more, you can check out Trichopsis Vittata.